Undiscovered Thailand: Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park

If you're in Bangkok but want to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life, then catch a train to the seaside resort of Hua Hin. There you can discover one of Thailand's best-kept secrets.

Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, about 60 km south of Hua Hin is one of Thailand's smaller National Parks at 98 sq km. It was given national park status in 1966 and was the first coastal national park in the country. Khao Sam Roi Yot means "mountains with three hundred peaks" due to its dramatic limestone scenery.

The park is included in some guidebooks, but fills comparatively few column inches simply because the country has so much else to offer. Koh Samui, Chiang Mai and Phuket are livelier and less complicated to visit. So, it's easy to overlook this mysterious and majestic place.

We hadn't planned to visit, but friends whom we met in a bar convinced us to see this hidden gem. We were told the best way to get there is to hire your own driver for the day, leaving you to explore the amazing natural habitat in your own time.

Having set off at 8am from Hua Hin, we arrived at the park at around 9.30am. Our driver dropped us off and pointed aimlessly in one direction but all we could see was brown sludge.

It was pointless asking our driver where to go; he didn't speak English and the only words he'd uttered were Thaksin Shinawatra and Manchester City. Regardless, he was disappearing into the distance before we could turn our heads.

The white-sand beach at Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. Photo credit: Jonny Payne

Eventually we stumbled upon a small track, winding its way up the hillside and we started the long, steep climb. It was hot, humid and my friend Edd had the worst case of sunburns causing us to stop an every hundred yards.

After 30 minutes, we finally made it to the top. As we turned the corner, there was the most amazing view of a long, white deserted beach. We had definitely arrived at Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park.

Captivated by the view, we galloped down the headland towards the beach. We came to a forest that gave way to the blissful golden sand. It was so fine, it felt like flour. The beach was unspoilt with the only development being the park headquarters, a small cafe and some tasteful bungalows secluded within the trees.

Amid the trees were some dusky langurs and lemur-type monkeys. The park inhabits a wide variety of wildlife; the slow loris, barking deer, spectacled langurs and over 300 species of birds.

At one end of the beach, there was a signpost to Tham Prayha Nakon caves. After a 20 minute walk, we arrived at the caves which are now hollowed out with no roof. We made our way through the stalactites and stalagmites, admiring the wonderful limestone formations. One formation even resembled organ pipes. As we looked towards the back of the cave, we saw a pavilion reminiscent of many wats (temples), standing alone, basking in sunlight.

The sun was shining through the opening of the cave, leaving one-half in darkness and the other half in a bright, golden light, illuminating the magnificent building (the building was built in 1896 for the visit of King Rama V).

From forest to sea, Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. Photo credit: Jonny Payne

After exploring the caves for nearly an hour, we headed back to the beach. We had not seen anyone throughout the day and the beach remained deserted. The ocean stretched for miles, and with the waves lapping on the shore, the view was serene.

We walked along the beach and then skirted off into the forest to explore the bungalows. They looked simple yet comfortable and we were incredibly tempted to stay the night. However, our plans could not allow us for a night's stay since we had to catch a train to Bangkok the following morning.

At around 3pm, we walked back up the hillside to meet our driver. We headed back to Hua Hin satisfied in the knowledge that we had a great day, exploring a part of Thailand that, for once, wasn't swamped by tourists.

If you go:

Flights to Bangkok from London are currently starting at £375 (return including tax) with Kuwait Airways. Book online at www.statravel.co.uk.

You can catch the train from Bangkok to Hua Hin departing from Hualamphong train station. The journey takes four hours and costs between £6-8 for second class or £5-6 for third class.

There are also air-conditioned buses leaving from Bangkok's Southern bus station which take 3.5 hours at a cost of £3.50. They leave every half hour.

To get into the park you have to pay a National Park fee of £8.

You can find transport to the park easily in Hua Hin, be sure to haggle for a price, we paid £16 for the full day.

For more information on accommodation in and around the park, visit: www.tourismhuahin.com/khao-sam-roi-yot-huahin.php